Hardwood Skirting Boards

Solid hardwood skirting boards in twenty profiles, from tall Victorian and Georgian sections to clean contemporary lines. Primed ready for paint or unprimed if you would rather finish them yourself.

Machined in American tulipwood, with matching architrave, dado rails and panel moulding in every profile.

Made to order Moisture-resistant MDF Made in Britain

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Matches our skirtingCoordinated profile families

Moisture-resistant MDFWon't warp, twist or crack

Made in BritainMachined in our Epsom workshop since 2003

UK delivery in 5–7 working daysOr free collection from Epsom

Hardwood Skirting Boards Overview

Why choose solid wood skirting boards?

Solid wood skirting boards earn their place where skirting takes a beating — hallways, kitchens, anywhere a hoover lives. Solid timber takes a knock and can be filled, sanded and repainted rather than replaced, and the top arris stays sharp in a way a board edge does not. Ours are machined from American tulipwood, a paint-grade hardwood that holds a crisp profile.

Hardwood, pine or MDF?

Most wooden skirting boards on the shelf at a builders' merchant are softwood — pine or redwood — which is cheap but dents easily and needs knotting before it will take paint cleanly. Hardwood costs more and behaves better. Painted MDF is a genuinely good third option and cheaper still: see the MDF skirting boards if the finish will be paint.

Choosing a height and thickness

Period rooms generally want more height than people first pick: 170mm and above suits a Victorian or Georgian room with tall ceilings, while 120–145mm sits comfortably in a modern house. These boards are 20mm thick, enough to stand proud of the architrave that meets them. If you are matching existing skirting, measure the face height rather than guessing from a photograph.

Matching the rest of the room

Every profile here has a matching hardwood architrave, dado rail and panel moulding. The whole solid wood range sits under hardwood mouldings, and the period profiles run in MDF too — Victorian skirting boards being the most asked for.

Overview

The common questions, answered — so you order the right profile first time.

Primed saves you a coat and arrives ready for topcoat, which is what most people want. Choose unprimed if you are spraying to a particular system or using a specialist paint. Either way, fill the pin holes and caulk the top edge before the topcoat — that line is what the eye notices.

Matching architrave and dado rails are available in every profile.

Taller than most people first pick. A Victorian or Georgian room with high ceilings carries 170mm and above comfortably, while 120–145mm suits a modern house. If you are matching existing boards, measure the face height of what is there — photographs flatten the proportions and mislead.

Most skirting runs 15–25mm thick. The boards in this range are 20mm, which is enough to stand proud of the architrave it meets and to take a knock without flexing. Thicker than 25mm and you start fighting door linings and radiator pipes.

External corners are mitred at 45 degrees. Internal corners are better scribed than mitred: cut the first length square into the corner, then cut the second to the profile of the first with a coping saw. Walls are never truly square, and a scribe absorbs that where a mitre opens up and shows a gap.

Grab adhesive along the back, pressed home, then pins into the studs or into plugs in masonry while it goes off. On sound flat plaster, adhesive alone will hold it. With solid hardwood, pilot the pins near the ends and at mitres — timber can split where a pin goes cold into end grain, which is the one place MDF is more forgiving.